04 Jan Old Cut diamonds are back again
It seems that the spark of vintage glamour is blazing once again. Cuts from centuries ago are currently back in the spotlight. Old diamond cuts, such as the Old Mine Cut, the Old European Cut, and the Rose Cut, show that the Brilliant Cut is not the only shape that brings out the best in a diamond. That’s why we have adourned our Key of Amsterdam collection with some beautiful Old cut diamonds. Moreover, Fancy Coloured Diamonds are also enjoying great attention once again!
Getting Married and Engaged with an Old Cut
When Taylor Swift received her engagement ring with a rose-cut diamond from her beloved Travis Kelce — hand-cut, high-crowned, with that characteristic soft cushion profile (see below) — the couple simultaneously showcased the irresistible appeal of this beautiful cut.
Emily in Paris actress Lily Collins also said ‘yes’ to the timeless elegance of an engagement ring with an ‘Old Cut’, in this case a rose-cut diamond in an 18-carat yellow gold bezel setting. The rediscovery of these ‘Old Cuts’ shows that character and beauty always go hand in hand.
Old Mine Cut, the primal brilliance of diamond
The interest in these Old Cuts is not so surprising. The cuts tell a unique and romantic story. The Old Mine Cut, or Bolshevik Cut, originated in the 18th and 19th centuries, when diamonds were still polished by candlelight. From the old mines in places like Brazil and India, rough stones without brilliance were shipped to Europe, where workshops in cities like Amsterdam formed the beating heart of the diamond craft.
In small ateliers, polishers did not rely on measuring instruments but on their eyes, intuition, and experience. Using diamond powder, oil, and a wheel, they shaped the stone’s facets by following their intuition. The gemstone dictated the shape; the contours were not forced but followed. This is how the Old Mine Cut came to be: high in crown, small in table, and never perfectly round.
Stones with character
No two Old Mine Cuts are alike. Their facets form a soft square outline that does not refract light, but draws it inward. The natural asymmetry and traces of craftsmanship give each stone its own character, with a lively, warmer sparkle instead of cool white light. In an era of Insta-perfection, this vintage cut shines precisely in its imperfect perfection.
Rose-cut diamond, the aristocrat among diamonds
Even older than the Old Mine Cut is the Rose Cut. This cut is the aristocrat among diamonds: refined and understatedly powerful. With its flat base and a dome of triangular facets, it catches the light not to break it, but to soften it. This creates an almost velvety glow. The soft, sensual sparkle is exactly what makes it beloved again in modern jewellery. Even in contemporary designs, the Rose-cut diamond fits seamlessly with the desire to prioritise personality over perfection.
Fancy colour diamond, individuality with expression
While the Old Cuts carry the soul of antique jewellery, the Fancy Colour Diamond celebrates the freedom of the present. With shapes like Cushion, Pear, Marquise, and Emerald Cut, you can express your personal style. Colours also add an extra touch of glamour. Every Fancy Colour Diamond, whether soft grey, champagne, cognac, pink, or even red or blue, is a rare gemstone, in a beautiful shade, created by nature. Fancy Colour Diamonds are the modern, playful heirs of a traditional craft: freer in form, lighter in tone, yet still a tribute to light, cut with the very latest techniques to bring out the colour as much as possible.
Stones with a story
In the world of Bonebakker, the Old Cuts and Fancy Coloured Diamonds come together as chapters of a single story. The artisanal Old Mine Cut, the soft Rose Cut, and the Fancy Coloured diamonds with their allure are connected to our long tradition. Come and admire them in our salon.
Photos below:
Ring with Fancy Yellow Pear-Cut diamond – Bridges of Amsterdam ring with black diamond – Boucheron earring with rose-cut diamond
